Fridge · Freezer · Wine & beverage coolers
Food spoils fast once a fridge climbs past 40°F. Call now and we’ll line up a local technician who works on your brand.
Most refrigerator failures trace back to a short list of parts: the evaporator fan, the defrost system, the condenser fan, the start relay or the control board. A sealed-system failure (compressor or refrigerant leak) is the expensive outlier, and it is less common than people fear.
Before anyone comes out, a few checks at home can save you a service call or at least help the technician arrive with the right part. They take about ten minutes.
Before you call
Symptoms
Check first something you can safely look at yourself · Technician needs tools, parts or testing
Usual causes: Evaporator fan, frosted-over coil, failed defrost heater or damper
Cold air is made in the freezer and blown into the fresh-food side. When the fan stops or the coil is buried in frost, the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms up. A thick, even frost on the freezer back panel is the tell for a defrost problem.
TechnicianUsual causes: Condenser fan, start relay, compressor, control board
If you hear clicking every few minutes and the compressor never settles into a hum, the start relay or compressor is the usual suspect. A silent unit with lights on points toward the control board or thermistor.
TechnicianUsual causes: Clogged defrost drain, cracked drain pan, water inlet line
Ice blocking the defrost drain sends meltwater into the cabinet. On models with a dispenser, a split supply line or loose inlet valve fitting leaks behind the unit.
Check firstUsual causes: Door gasket, defrost timer or heater, door left ajar
Frost on food and walls usually means moist air is getting in. Frost concentrated on the rear panel with poor airflow points to the defrost system instead.
Check firstUsual causes: Evaporator or condenser fan motor, ice on a fan blade, drain pan loose
Noise that stops when you open the freezer door is usually the evaporator fan. Noise from the bottom rear is the condenser fan or compressor mounts.
TechnicianUsual causes: Dirty condenser coil, failing gasket, low refrigerant
A fridge that never cycles off in a normal-temperature room is working too hard. Clean the coil first; if it still runs nonstop, a technician should check the sealed system.
Check firstPrice range
| Repair | Typical cost (parts and labor) |
|---|---|
| Defrost heater | $120 to $400 |
| Evaporator fan motor | $250 to $400 |
| Condenser fan motor | $200 to $350 |
| Door gasket | $100 to $300 |
| Water inlet valve | $100 to $250 |
| Control board | $400 to $750 |
| Compressor | $700 to $1,250 |
| Condenser coil cleaning | $70 to $130 |
National figures from HomeGuide (2023 data, page updated 2026). Prices in the Chicago area can run higher than national averages, and the technician quotes the actual price after diagnosis.
Read the full cost guideA compressor or sealed-system repair on a refrigerator past about ten years old is usually money better spent on a new unit. Fans, relays, thermistors, gaskets and defrost parts are worth fixing at almost any age.
Older units also cost more to run. Our repair or replace guide walks through the numbers and the recycling options.
Top-freezer, bottom-freezer, side-by-side, French door and counter-depth models, plus standalone upright and chest freezers. Built-in and panel-ready units such as Sub-Zero or Thermador need a technician with that training, so say so when you call.
Local
Chicago-area summers are humid, and a fridge in an un-air-conditioned kitchen or a garage works much harder in July than in March. Garage refrigerators are also a common winter problem: many models are not designed for unheated spaces, and the freezer can warm up when the garage gets cold. Check the operating temperature range in the manual.
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