Won’t drain
Usual causes: Clogged pump filter, failed drain pump, kinked hose
If you can hear the pump hum but no water moves, it is usually blocked. No sound at all points to a failed pump or a control problem.
Check firstFront load · Top load · Stacked units
A tub full of water and wet laundry is a bad afternoon. Call and we’ll connect you with a local washer technician.
Washers fail in fairly predictable ways. Drain pumps clog with socks and coins, lid and door locks wear out, suspension parts sag, and bearings eventually get loud. Front-load machines add door-boot mold and leaks to that list.
Many washers also report the problem with a code. If yours is flashing one, look it up in the error code library first; it often tells you whether this is a clog you can clear or a part that needs replacing.
Symptoms
Check first something you can safely look at yourself · Technician needs tools, parts or testing
Usual causes: Clogged pump filter, failed drain pump, kinked hose
If you can hear the pump hum but no water moves, it is usually blocked. No sound at all points to a failed pump or a control problem.
Check firstUsual causes: Unbalanced load, lid switch or door lock, drive belt, motor control
Washers will not spin until the lid or door lock confirms it is closed. Worn belts and failing motor control boards cause weak or no spin on otherwise working machines.
TechnicianUsual causes: Door boot tear, pump seal, inlet hose, tub seal
Where the water shows up tells you a lot. Front center usually means the door boot. Back of the machine points to inlet hoses. Under the middle can mean a pump or tub seal.
Check firstUsual causes: Leveling feet, shipping bolts left in, worn shocks or suspension rods
New machines that shake violently often still have their shipping bolts installed. On older units, worn suspension parts let the tub slam into the cabinet.
TechnicianUsual causes: Tub bearings
A roar that gets louder with spin speed is the classic bearing failure, and on many front loaders it means replacing the whole outer tub. This is often a repair-or-replace moment.
TechnicianUsual causes: Detergent residue, water left in the boot
Run a hot cleaning cycle with a washer cleaner, wipe the boot folds, and leave the door ajar between loads. Use HE detergent in the measured amount; too much is the usual cause.
Check firstBefore you call
Price range
| Repair | Typical cost (parts and labor) |
|---|---|
| Drain pump | $150 to $350 |
| Lid switch or door lock | $100 to $300 |
| Water inlet valve | $100 to $300 |
| Belt | $100 to $200 |
| Shock absorbers | $100 to $350 |
| Front-load door gasket | $275 to $600 |
| Control board | $350 to $550 |
| Transmission | $200 to $600 |
National figures from HomeGuide (2023 data, page updated 2026). Prices in the Chicago area can run higher than national averages, and the technician quotes the actual price after diagnosis.
Read the full cost guideSamsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Speed Queen and most other household brands, including stacked washer and dryer pairs and all-in-one units.
Pumps, lid switches, door locks, belts and hoses are straightforward repairs at almost any age. Bearings on a front loader and main control boards on a machine past ten years are where replacement starts to win.
See the repair or replace guide for lifespans and the cost math.
Local
A lot of homes around Oak Lawn have the washer in a basement next to a floor drain or laundry tub. Check that the laundry tub or standpipe itself is draining freely before blaming the washer. A slow basement drain can back water up and look exactly like a pump problem.
Free to call
Call with the brand and any error code on the display. We’ll find a washer technician near you.
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